Knowing cowboy boot terminology is important when you are trying on and choosing a pair of cowboy boots. Each part of the boot serves a distinct purpose, and each style has its own traits that affect fit and aesthetic. Care goes into the construction and assembly of each part of a cowboy boot.
Read our glossary below so you can learn the cowboy boots parts’ names, and try on your cowboy boots with confidence.
Back quarter: The back half of the shaft, separated by the side seams.
Collar: Decorative strip or layer of leather around the top of the boot.
Counter: The piece of the leather that covers the heel of the upper.
Front quarter: The front half of the shaft, separated by the side seams.
Heel base: The outside, elevated part of the heel that fits against the rear, or seat, of the outsole. The heel base may be made in a number of styles.
Heel cap: A layer on the bottom of the heel for traction. Also called a “heel lift.”
Inlay: Decorative features with contrasting layers of leather. Also called a “cutout.”
Insole: Layer of leather between the upper and the welt. The insole is the surface inside the boot on which the foot rests.
Instep: The section of the boot surrounding the arch of the foot.
Mule tabs: Extra-long pull straps.
Outsole: Outermost sole of the boot that protects the wearer’s foot from the ground. Outsoles may be made with leather, rubber, or a synthetic material.
Outsole stitching: One or two rows of stitching that help hold the welt and the outsole together.
Overlay: Decorative pattern(s) sewn on top of the boot leather.
Pegs: Very small stakes hammered around the edges of the outsoles of some boots. Pegs are used to help secure the outsole, insole, and upper, and are generally found in higher-quality boots. May be made of lemonwood or maple.
Piping: Small decorative tubes of leather used to finish the look of a boot. Maybe be found along side seams or collar.
Pull holes: Two holes on either side of the boot used in place of pull straps to put the boot on.
Pull straps: Loops of leather attached to the side seams of the boot. Used to pull the boot onto the foot. Also called “pulls tabs” or “mule tabs.”
Scallop: The V-shape at the top of the shaft. Also called a “dip.”
Shaft: The part of the boot that covers the wearer’s leg. Includes the front quarter and back quarter.
Side seam: Seams conjoining the front quarter and back quarter. Sometimes covered with decorative piping and pull tabs at the top of the boot.
Spur shelf: The heel of a boot may extend slightly past the counter, creating a “shelf” on which a spur can sit.
Toe box: Stiff material in the boot’s toe between the outer vamp and boot lining, used to maintain the toe’s shape.
Toe stitch: Rows of decorative stitching atop a boot’s toe. Also called a “fleur-de-lis,” “toe bug,” “toe flower,” or “medallion.”
Tongue: Place where the vamp meets the boot shaft, often cut into a decorative shape.
Vamp: The piece of leather covering the instep and toe of the upper.
Waist: Where the shaft of the boot meets the upper at the ankle. Also called the “throat.”
Welt: A strip of sturdy material (often leather) sewn around the joining of the upper and the insole. Also called “welting.”
Wingtip: A decorative overlay covering the toe of the boot.
